Burghound Allen Meadows, octobre 2023

Frédéric Gueguen, who now manages the equivalent of 36 ha, describes the 2022 vintage as one that “was honestly pretty easy to manage because other than an early season frost scare, and a very dry summer, there wasn’t much else to be concerned about. We picked from the 5th of September and the fruit is as clean as I have ever seen it. There was literally nothing to eliminate in terms of poor fruit quality though there are always the assorted leaves, bugs and tiny stones. Yields were higher than normal but not what I would call generous with potential alcohols that ranged from 11.5 to 12.5%. The sugar/acid equilibrium was also perfect so I corrected nothing at all. Overall, the 2022s are riper than normal but with good balance and reasonably good transparency. There is literally nothing not to like!” He also noted that now all of the fermentations are done with indigenous yeasts and that all the wines are now bottled using composite corks. (Caveau Selections, www.caveauselections.com, OR, Ideal Wines, www.idealwine.us, MA, T. Elenteny Imports, www.teimports.com, NY, Grassroots Wine, https://grassrootswine.com, AL, SC, USA; Burgundy Portfolio, www.burgundyportfolio.com, UK).


2022 Coteaux Bourguignons – Sacy: (this is noted as « cépage confidentiel » on the label meaning a rarely seen grape variety). A vague whiff of exotic fruit lurks in the background of the fresh aromas of just sliced pear, apple and a suggestion of citrus zest. The racy and delicious flavors possess a lovely sense of verve while delivering better than average length on the agreeably dry and clean finish. This isn’t particularly complex, but the refreshing finish invites another sip and overall, this is worth considering and particularly so if you enjoy something a bit off the beaten track. 87/2024+

2022 Bourgogne Aligoté “La Vigne de Marie-Louise”: A very aligoté is comprised of ripe citrus, green apple and a pretty range of spice nuances, especially anise. There is fine volume to the plump but energetic middleweight flavors that display solid length on the saliva-inducing and equally refreshing finish. This is also worth checking out. 87/2024+

2022 St. Bris: (this is noted as “Curiosité de Bourgogne” on the label, which is to say a curiosity of Burgundy). There is just enough sauvignon blanc character, along with a hint of exoticism, to be persuasive as to the grape variety. The delicious, punchy and lightly stony medium weight flavors possess acceptable depth on the otherwise nicely persistent bitter citrus rind[1]inflected finish. 87/2024+

2022 Bourgogne Chardonnay – Côtes Salines: An exuberantly fresh and expressive nose freely offers up its array of mostly citrus-suffused white fleshed fruit aromas. The delicious and agreeably textured flavors conclude in a slightly simple but chiseled, dry and refreshing finale. To enjoy young. 86/2024+

2022 Petit Chablis: Here there is just enough post-bottling reduction to warrant a quick aeration. By contrast there is good freshness and punch to the equally delicious middleweight flavors that possess good richness that carries over to the moderately dry but not really austere finale where a hint of quinine slowly emerges. This too should drink well on the younger side. 87/2024+

2022 Chablis: (from Chichée, Préhy and Courgis fruit). A ripe yet largely classic Chablis nose features notes of iodine, mineral reduction and cool green fruit that is liberally laced with citrus wisps. There is better volume to the generously proportioned medium-bodied flavors that exhibit better depth on the clean and dry but not particularly austere finale. This should also be approachable after only 2 to 3 years of keeping. 88/2025+

2022 Chablis – La Vigne de 1975: This is aromatically similar to the straight Chablis with the addition of a floral top note. The old vines are in evidence as there is even better mid-palate density to the succulent and sappy flavors that possess fine punch on the refreshing and equally dry finale. This could use better depth but a few years of bottle aging should help. 88/2026+

2022 Chablis Premier Cru “Vaillons”: Cool and airy aromas include those of smoky mineral reduction, white pepper and citrus confit along with a hint of seashore character. I very much like the refined texture of the fleshy and round middleweight flavors that manage to be at once plump yet vibrant on the youthfully austere finale. This is a relatively opulent Vaillons that should permit it to be enjoyed young if desired. (88-91)/2026+

2022 Chablis Premier Cru “Vosgros”: Here too there is a touch of smoky mineral reduction to the aromas of ocean breeze, essence of pear and algae. As one would reasonably expect, there is more volume if less refinement to the medium-bodied flavors that flash evident power on the linear, stony and very dry finale. In contrast to all of the prior wines, this will need at least a couple of years of patience as it’s fairly compact at present. 90/2027+

2022 Chablis Premier Cru “Vaucoupin”: A more elegant nose is comprised by notes of ripe white orchard fruit and a pretty array of floral nuances along with just enough Chablis typicity to be convincing. The rich, fleshy and generous medium weight flavors possess a highly seductive, even plush, texture while delivering good if not special length on the dry bitter zest-inflected finale. 89/2026+

2022 Chablis Premier Cru “Fourchaume”: (from the Côte de Fontenay). A more reserved if slightly riper and mildly exotic nose combines notes of essence of pear, oyster shell and a hint of iodine. Here too the middleweight flavors possess a beguiling texture while there is slightly brighter acidity supporting on the slightly drier but not really austere finale. I like the balance and this should both drink well young but also repay 3 to 7 or so years of keeping. 90/2026+

2022 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros: A ripe and nicely layered nose consists mostly of pear and apple aromas laced with hints of citrus, spice and wet stone. The very round, plump and almost easy-going larger-bodied flavors possess good power but limited energy on the vaguely bitter finish. This seems a bit flat though it could simply be a phase so note that my predicted range offers the benefit of the doubt. (88-91)/2026+

2022 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses: A more elegant and slightly cooler if still noticeably ripe nose displays aromas of smoky mineral reduction, citrus confit and pear liqueur. The round, rich and border-line opulent medium-bodied flavors possess better energy (though the palate impression isn’t racy) while exhibiting an evident stoniness on the youthfully austere finish that also flashes a mild bitterness. This could use better depth so a few years of keeping are in order. (89-92)/2027+


2022 Bourgogne Rosé: A cool and lightly fruity nose of strawberry and cranberry leads to nicely detailed and energetic lighter weight flavors that aren’t complex but they are refreshing on the agreeably dry finale. 86/now+


2022 Bourgogne Pinot Noir “La Vigne d’Emile”: Ripe aromas of plum, red and dark pinot fruit and a hint of spice give way to nicely rich and punchy flavors that conclude in ever-so-mildly dry, youthfully austere and rustic finale. I suspect that the dryness is sulfur-based and thus probably won’t last once it’s integrated. 86/2024+

2022 Irancy “Les Mazelots”: (100% pinot noir). Firm reduction renders the nose impossible to reasonably assess. Otherwise, there is both good volume and vibrancy to the succulent flavors that terminate in an overtly austere and markedly rustic finish where a touch of bitterness slowly emerges. This moderately tannic effort is very Irancy in character and based on the backend edginess, it definitely would benefit from being served with an appropriate dish. (85-87)/2025+