Burgundy Report – Bill Nanson – Janvier 2024

Nous avons eu le plaisir de recevoir Bill Nanson pour une dégustation de nos vins en janvier 2024.

Retrouver son article ci-dessous et sur Céline & Frédéric Gueguen – 2022 – Burgundy-Report

« Fred on 2023:
We had a big pressure from mildew – we were certified organic in 2023 and that was hard to manage – but it dried and contributed nothing – bad! – to the quality and we still had a good volume. I think the quality will be similar to 2022.

Fred on 2022:
All is bottled – and for some time as we had so little 2021. We had a good volume – and it was easy in the cuverie – it took us longer to ferment the 23s. We are happy. The 22s are selling well – the Auxerois wines and the Petit Chablis plus the Chablis we still have some stock but a lot of the rest is gone.

The wines…

Such a reliable producer – always super wines – and occasionally – as this year – some great wines too!

From 2018 the wines are DIAM sealed, not just the entry ones – some screwcap also remains:

2022 Saint-Bris Curiosité de Bourgogne
A slightly smoky depth but there’s no obvious minty-character here. Lovely in the mouth there’s a modest generosity and fine texture.

2022 Bourgogne Aligoté Vieilles-Vignes
Vines from 1965, planted by Céline’s grandfather – like the St.Bris with a north, north-east exposure.
A more airy – and attractive – width of aroma. This is silky and also has some generosity. That’s a super-tasty wine. Lovely!

2022 Bourgogne Chardonnay Côtes Salines
Vines south of Préhy, a little from around St.Bris too – but the latter is only about 20% of the mix
An extra airy freshness to this attractive aroma. More overtly mineral too – slightly reductive flavoured but a wine full of flavour. Yum!

2022 Sacy Cépage Confidential
The last bottle at the domaine – the 2023 will be bottled in the next weeks.
A more direct nose – very attractive. Hmm – lovely in the mouth – there’s extra fluidity here – how could this not be a great Sacy? – I hardly know any others! Delicious fresh wine – but interesting wine too.

2022 Petit Chablis
From 1.3 hectares in Préhy.
A clean and fresh width of inviting aroma – nice. Mouth-filling, full of energy and mouth-watering flavour – the minerality is overt but also overtly delicious in this finish. Excellent PC…

2022 Chablis
From Préhy and Chichée – 6.5 hectares worth. With the Bourgogne the largest cuvée of the domaine.
Higher tones – there’s almost an exotic accent to this more forward citrus aromatic. Mouth-filling again – with extra depth to this flavour – a rounder style but because it’s more mouth-filling. Very tasty finishing even with a little honey – that’s lovely wine.

2022 Chablis ‘La Vigne de 1975
‘We wanted to do a different cuvée but everyone does ‘old vines’, they are not the oldest vines that we have, but they are the same vintage as me and Céline!’ Vines in Préhy.
Hmm – wider, more floral accents, that’s a lovely aromatic. Fluid but mouth-filling – very classy flavours – I love it – and it’s really long too – tons of tasty finishing flavour – quite perfumed flavours accent this mineral finish. Yes, bravo!

2022 Chablis 1er Vosgros
More direct, quite a linear but properly mineral nose with some faint herbed complexity – good cooking herbs and slowly more floral! Really wide over the palate – panoramic – growing more juicy and even a little zesty – zesty is rarer in 2022 than in 2021.

2022 Chablis 1er Vaillons
This a long-term contract since the 2021 vintage – the team here do the harvesting too.
Open, nicely crystalline notes and the impression of more sucrosity. Hmm, that melts wonderfully well over the palate with a small saline twist to the flavour. Delicious, more agrume finishing. Super wine.

2022 Chablis 1er Vaucoupin
Older vines in one single parcel, planted in 1975.
Hmm – a nice nose – starting muddled but in seconds opening out and becoming ever cleaner and more inviting – yes! Fine scale, really mouth-filling, a cascade of juicy flavour, super texture. That’s a top 1er cru – bravo.

2022 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Also, like the Vaillons, a contract since 2021. From Côte de Fontenay.
A warmer, rounder but beautifully clean nose – very yellow fruited – not quite golden. Really wide – another panoramic wine – ultra mineral but not strict – again with beautiful texture. Not usually my favourite style vs Vaucoupin – but I love it!

2022 Chablis Bougros
From ‘Clos de Roy’ in Bougros following the road opposite the plantations of cereal and the Petit Chablis
Here is aromatic concentration in both the width and depth of aromas – nicely clean in the top notes too. Hmm, depth, a couple of mm of richness to the texture – lovely texture. Full of flavour. Sumptuous, delicious wine – it’s just soooo tasty!!

2022 Chablis Preuses
A less ample nose after Bougros but still open – finer, more airy perfume though. More fluid despite the concentration – less overtly generous. But here is still a lot of concentration – it’s just a hint more strict in shape – not overtly but. The finish more obviously mineral and lasting.

Les Reds:

2022 Bourgogne Rouge
This from the terroirs of St.Bris.
A nicely open, expansive nose – there’s plenty of herbed complexity here. Mouth-filling, off-ripe but really tasty – even a small creamy depth but this wine is made only in tank. ‘We don’t have place for barrels!’ Delicious finishing.

2022 Irancy Mazelots
Here there was 15% oak barrel elevage.
More colour here. A deep and dark nose of depth, faintly reductive but lightening with air – growing cleaner, dark cherry fruit with time. Hmm – this has super energy and width over the palate. A more complete wine than the Bourgogne – full of interesting flavour. Super!

2022 Cesar Cepage Autochtone
The name talks of an ancestral history – ‘indigenous or native’ – just 2-3 months in barrel.
Hmm that’s a nice nose – sweetness like boiled sweets and depth – no horse or fox ???? In the mouth – this is mouth-filling, really large scale. That’s a very tasty wine – amazingly so – the best 100% César that I may have tasted! »